London’s top restaurants
Time Out asked its food critics to come up with a list of the 50 best places to eat in London. And here it is: from capital curries to great gastropubs, as well as suggestions for where to eat on the cheap, if you want to impress, or are just looking for great service and value.
Amaya
Much of the menu at this chic bar and grill is grilled on the tawa (a thick iron plate), sigri (coal grill) or in the more familiar tandoor (hot clay oven) right in front of diners, which adds a great sense of theatre to the sparkling surrounds. The biryanis are first rate; and if you’ve ever wanted to try proper ‘Awadhi’ dishes, from the height of the Moghul empire in Lucknow, this is the place to try them. Amaya’s relatively expensive, but it’s outstanding value nonetheless.
When to go When you crave Indian food, but are tired of ‘curry’.
What to have Biryanis, or ask for any of the Awadhi dishes.
Amaya, 15 Motcomb St, Halkin Arcade, SW1X 8JT (7823 1166/www.realindianfood.com). Knightsbridge tube.
Ba Shan
The creators of Baozi Inn and Bar Shu have created this excellent restaurant that focuses on Chinese-style ‘tapas’, or xiao chi. Small plates of delectable dumplings (choose from boiled pork and chive dumplings swimming in an intense, garlicky chilli oil or chicken and shiitake mushroom-stuffed guo tie, or pan-fried dumplings) make up the majority of the menu. Unique dishes that draw inspiration from classic Chengdu and Xi’an street food is also prolific, such as Shaanxi jia mo, small soft flatbreads stuffed with ingredients such as cumin-spiced beef. The service is friendly and any unfamiliar dishes are always expertly explained.
When to go In a small group (as the tables are rather pint-sized) so you can share plenty of xiao chi.
What to have The northern Chinese speciality of tu dou si, or spicy potato slivers with a very moreish tang from vinegar, is one of the best renditions we’ve found in the city. We’d also skip the larger noodle dishes and stick to the smaller plates.
Ba Shan , 24 Romilly St, W1D 5AH (020 7287 3266). Tottenham Court Rd or Piccadilly Circus tube.
Harwood Arms
There are many pubs laying claim to serving ‘seasonal, local and natural produce’, but Mike Robinson’s Fulham venture actually transcends it. A well-known game specialist, Robinson himself actually hunts for all the deer that will form the base of dishes such as roast venison T-bone with cavolo nero and mushroom ketchup. Much of the menu uses wild ingredients sourced from land in and around the woods near Robinson’s first gastropub, The Pot Kiln in Berkshire. Everything we tried was superb, and washed down nicely with the well-kept ales (including Black Sheep bitter, or the current guest ale, Good Old Boy from the West Berkshire Brewery).
When to go For a bone-warming, conscience-free game meal.
What to have Pigeon, venison, rabbit – all good. With warm Bramley apple doughnuts to end.
Harwood Arms, 27 Walham Grove, SW6 1QP (7386 1847). Fulham Broadway tube.
Carpenter’s Arms
Bold Anglo-French fare is the order of the day at this thoroughly enjoyable gastropub. Beautifully layered flavours are present in each dish we tried – creamy lamb sweetbreads with baby turnips and pickled grapes, for example, or meaty halibut set atop cider-braised bacon, peas and lettuce with a clean, savoury broth. It often feels more restaurant than pub, but it doesn’t seem to be a concern of the eclectic mix of fans that flock to the place day and night.
When to go For solid seasonal British food prepared and presented with a flourish.
What to have Anything that looks good – the dishes consistently deliver on taste.
Carpenter’s Arms, 91 Black Lion Lane, W6 9BG (8741 8386). Stamford Brook tube.
