4 tips how to experience Dubrovnik (almost) without crowds of tourists

Ever since Dubrovnik was used as the filming location for the cult series “Game of Thrones”, the Croatian city has been inundated with tourists.

In addition to vacationers arriving by plane, thousands of cruise ship passengers land in Dubrovnik almost every day. Nevertheless, there are ways and means of having the beautiful old town (almost) to yourself or at least avoiding the times with the greatest rush of tourists.

Dubrovnik has a problem with too many tourists, that much is clear. The popularity of the Croatian city with cruise ships, partly because of “Game of Thrones”, has reached such proportions that even the old town was threatened. In 2017, an average of more than 61,000 cruise tourists per month came to the town, which itself has just over 43,000 inhabitants. The crowds of holidaymakers who pushed their way through the narrow streets of the historic old town even endangered its status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

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In the meantime, however, the city has pulled the emergency brake: since 2019, only a maximum of two cruise ships, each with a maximum of 5,000 passengers, have been allowed to dock in Dubrovnik. Together with holidaymakers who arrive by plane, train or car, that is still a large number of people who often visit the old town at the same time. But if you plan wisely and heed the following tips, you can enjoy Dubrovnik without the crowds.

Choose the right travel time

It goes without saying that more holidaymakers than usual are out and about during the holiday season or around bridging days. If you have the opportunity, you should definitely avoid these times. In spring Dubrovnik has pleasant temperatures, and in autumn there are still many sunny days and with a bit of luck you can even swim in the sea. There is really little going on in the winter months, as many cruise ships tend to be in southern latitudes during this time. If you don’t mind a few rainy days and cooler temperatures, you’ll have the city almost to yourself between November and February.

The off-season is also worth visiting Dubrovnik for other reasons: in October, for example, the Good Food Festival takes place every year, where everything revolves around the specialties of the region and during which numerous workshops and other activities take place. The highlight is the famous Dubrovačka trpeza (Dubrovačka trpeza: in the Stradun, the long main street in the old town, a table hundreds of meters long is set up, where restaurants, pastry shops and winegrowers offer their specialities. On command, everyone who has previously bought vouchers can throw themselves at the delicacies and feast as much as they can. When exactly the festival will take place this year is not yet certain. Meal vouchers are available at special stands just before the start of the Dubrovačka trpeza right in Stradun.

During the Advent season, Dubrovnik hosts the Winter Festival, when the old town is beautifully decorated and various stalls offer gifts and food for sale. More events in Dubrovnik for all months can be found here.

Choose the right time

Many cruise ships usually dock in Dubrovnik between 7 a.m. and 12 p.m. and leave again in the late afternoon, sometimes not until around 9 p.m. Those who like to get up early can explore the old town in peace and quiet in the morning hours, because it takes at least an hour for the passengers to disembark in the port of Gruz and reach the city wall, before flocking to the old town. But even in the evening it is wonderful to wander through the illuminated streets and to watch the hustle and bustle in the many restaurants and bars.

Incidentally, it is also worth leaving the classic tourist paths within the city walls and exploring the alleys to the south and north of the famous Stradun main street. Because it is usually much emptier there and there are still numerous beautiful photo opportunities.

The view of the old town is also worth it!

Of course, the old town is the highlight of Dubrovnik and should not be missed on any visit. But especially at peak times, when a particularly large number of holidaymakers are out and about there, there are many places outside the historic center from which you have a fantastic view of the city walls and the narrowly built houses. The advantage: It is often not so crowded there, because many cruise ship passengers hardly have the time to visit more than the old town during their shore leave.

Worthwhile, for example, is the cable car ride up Dubrovnik’s local mountain Srd. In the gondola, you should try to get a seat at the very front by the window, because this is where you can take the best photos. Also from the Lovrijenac Fortress, which was turned into the residence of the king for “Game of Thrones”, one has a wonderful view of the bay and the old town of Dubrovnik. Opposite the fortress is Gradac Park. From here, too, you can see the red roofs of the old town, Mount Srd and the Adriatic Sea.

And if you want to see the old town from the water, you should cross over to the island of Lokrum, south-east of Dubrovnik. Boats cross every half hour from the old town harbour. The island is also worth visiting because of the beautiful nature and the free-roaming peacocks and rabbits. Game of Thrones fans can also climb the Iron Throne at Lokrum Visitor Center.

Knowing when and how busy it is

As the city tries to better manage the crowds of visitors, there is a website where you can see how many tourists are currently in the old town. You can easily access this information here. This makes it easier to find a good time to go for a walk in the old town.

Dubrovnik – the best tips from our editor (Travelbook) Susanne

Where are the best restaurants?

All over! There are countless restaurants and taverns in Dubrovnik. I recommend eating down at the port. Whether black risotto with squid ink or pasta with seafood – the dream view is on top at the harbor! You should try the typical Gregada. It’s a kind of fish soup, more like bouillabaisse, except that there’s a whole main course, mostly deep-sea fish, in it. It is best to enjoy a white wine from the area with it. The most famous come from the islands of Corcula and Peljesac.

The best spot to watch the sunset

I’ve been to one country or another, but I’ve never seen so many dreamy sunsets. Movie ready! If you are in the old town and walk along the wall in the direction of the Adriatic Sea, you go through a small tunnel directly to the rocks by the sea. This is the perfect spot for the sunset!

What should you definitely do?

A few tips: Withdraw Kuna directly upon arrival, because not everywhere you can pay by card. Also, make time for a weekend trip and the surrounding area – it would be a shame to only see Dubrovnik. With a rental car you can explore the small bays and places. Simply drive along the Magistrale, i.e. the coastal road, or explore the old paths. And be sure to bring home a souvenir, olive oil, wine, lavender products, truffle oil, a bit of the pearl of the Adriatic!